Nā Kuhihewa Maʻamau i ka ʻAno o ka Linen

Ma ka ʻoihana holoi lole olonā hōkele, ʻo ka hōʻoia ʻana i ka maikaʻi o ka olonā ke kī i ka hōʻoia ʻana i ka maikaʻi o ka lawelawe a me ka hoʻomaikaʻi ʻana i ka ʻoluʻolu o ka mea kūʻai. Eia nō naʻe, he nui nā loea o ka ʻoihana holoi lole i kuhihewa e pili ana i ka maikaʻi o ka olonā, kahi e hoʻopilikia ai i nā hoʻoholo kūʻai a ka hōkele a me ka hana ʻoihana o ka ʻoihana holoi lole.

Kuhihewa 1: ʻOi aku ka mānoanoa o nā lole = ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka maikaʻi?

ʻO ka ʻoiaʻiʻo, hiki i nā lole mānoanoa ke loaʻa kahi ʻano olonā kūloko palupalu a me ka pae ʻoluʻolu maikaʻi ʻole ma muli o ko lākou helu kaula haʻahaʻa. Ma hope o nā holoi ʻana he nui, hiki i ka lole olonā ke hoʻololi maʻalahi a ʻāwili paha. I ka hoʻohālikelike ʻana, ʻoiai ʻoi aku ke kumukūʻai o nā lole o ka helu kaula kiʻekiʻe, hiki iā lākou ke lawe mai i kahi ʻike mea hoʻohana maikaʻi aʻe no nā malihini hōkele ma muli o ko lākou maikaʻi. I ka hana lōʻihi, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ke kumukūʻai. No kaka holoi lole o ka hōkeleʻoihana, i ka wā e mālama ai i nā lole me ka helu kaula kiʻekiʻe, pono lākou e hoʻolohe i ko lākou ʻano palupalu a koho i nā mea holoi akahai a me nā polokalamu holoi kūpono e pale aku ai i ka hōʻino ʻana i nā lole ma muli o ka hana hewa.

Ke kūʻai ka poʻe i ka olonā, aia kahi mākaukau pono. ʻO ia hoʻi, e ʻimi ana i ka lepili o ka helu nui o nā kaula a me ka nui o ka mānoanoa. Ma ka lawe ʻana i nā palena e like me "40 × 40/128 × 68" ma ke ʻano he laʻana, ʻo ka hapa mua "40 × 40" e hōʻike ana i ka helu o nā kaula warp a me ka weft, ʻoiai ʻo ka hapa hope "128 × 68" e hōʻike ana i ka nui o nā kaula warp a me ka nui o ka weft. Ma ke ʻano laulā, ʻo ka nui o ka waiwai o ka "helu kaula × mānoanoa", ʻoi aku ka kiʻekiʻe o ka maikaʻi o ka lole. Hōʻike piha kēia waiwai i ka mānoanoa o ka olonā a me ka paʻa o ka lole. Hiki i nā lole me ka helu nui o nā kaula a me ka nui o ka mānoanoa ke pale pono i ke komo ʻana o ka lepo a me nā ʻōpala, me ka mālama ʻana i ka hanu maikaʻi a me ka hoʻolōʻihi ʻana i ke ola lawelawe o nā olonā.

Kuhihewa 2: He lole ʻoʻoleʻa = Kūlana kiʻekiʻe?

Manaʻo kekahi poʻe he ʻoi aku ka paʻakikī o ka olonā me nā lole ʻoʻoleʻa a ʻaʻole lākou i ʻike he mau hana hoʻopunipuni paha ma hope o ia mea. No ka hana ʻana i ka mānoanoa a me ka ʻoʻoleʻa o ka olonā, hoʻohana kekahi mau hale hana holoi lole i ka ana ʻana. Ke hoʻohana ka poʻe i ka olonā ma hope o ka ana ʻana no ka manawa mua, maikaʻi ke ʻano ʻoi a me ka mānoanoa. Eia naʻe, ma hope o ka holoi ʻia ʻana i ka wai, hoʻi ka olonā i kona kūlana palupalu mua a nalowale ke ʻano ʻoi no ka mea ua hoʻoheheʻe koke ʻia ka nui. Ma kēia ʻano, lilo ka ana ʻana i mea hana hopena hoʻokahi manawa.

ʻO nā lole kiʻekiʻe maoli nō ka mālama pono ʻana i ke ʻano ma muli o ka nui o ka hilo maʻamau, a ʻaʻole pono e hilinaʻi i ke kaʻina hana ana. Hoʻomaʻamaʻa pinepine ʻia kēia ʻano lole me kahi mea palupalu e hoʻoluʻolu i nā olonā a ʻoluʻolu hoʻi i ka lima. ʻOiai ma hope o nā holoi he nui, hiki i nā lole ke mālama i kahi ʻano maikaʻi. I ka hōʻiliʻili ʻana i ka lole olonā, inā ʻike ka hui holoi lole olonā hōkele he ʻano ʻē ka lole olonā, pono lākou e nīnau i nā mea hoʻolako inā ua hana ʻia ka lole olonā i ke kaʻina hana mercerization. Hoʻohana ke kaʻina hana mercerization i kahi ʻano kemika e mālama ai i nā lole pulupulu, hiki ke hoʻonui i ka luster a me ka ikaika o nā lole i ka wā lōʻihi. ʻO ka lole olonā me ka nui o ka nui ʻaʻole wale e hoʻololi maʻalahi ma hope o ka holoi ʻana akā he hopena maikaʻi ʻole hoʻi i ka hopena holoi ma muli o nā koena nui, e hoʻonui ana i ka paʻakikī o ka holoi ʻana a me nā kumukūʻai. ʻO ka hopena, ʻo ka hōʻole ʻana e kūʻai i nā lole "hoʻolei" me ka nui o ka nui he hana koʻikoʻi ia i ka hōʻoia ʻana i ka maikaʻi o ka lole olonā a me ke ʻano onā lawelawe holoi.

Kuhihewa 3: Nā lole ʻālohilohi = Nā olonā kemika?

I ke ola o kēlā me kēia lā, ke ʻike ka poʻe he nui i ka lole ʻālohilohi, manaʻo mua lākou he fiber kemika ia. ʻOiaʻiʻo, he kuhihewa kēia e pili ana i ka mercerization. Ma hope o ka mālama ʻia ʻana o nā lole pulupulu me ka mercerization me nā mea kemika e like me ka caustic soda, loli ke ʻano o ka fiber, a lilo ka ʻili i laumania a palahalaha, hiki ke hōʻike like i ka mālamalama i mea e loaʻa ai kahi ʻālohilohi palupalu. ʻAʻohe pili pololei o kēia i ka mea he fiber kemika ka lole ponoʻī a ʻaʻole paha.

I ka hana ʻana i nā lole, he mea maʻalahi ke huikau ʻana i ka calendering a me ka mercerizing. Hoʻohana ka calendering i ke kaomi mīkini kaumaha e hana i ka ʻili o nā lole i pālahalaha a laumania i mea e loaʻa ai ka luster. Eia naʻe, mae wale kēia hopena luster ma hope o ka holoi ʻana i ka wai he nui, a paʻakikī ka manaʻo lima o nā lole. He hana kemika ka Mercerizing. ʻAʻole ia e hāʻawi wale i ka luster mau loa i nā lole akā hoʻomaikaʻi pū i ka ikaika, ka omo ʻana o ka makū, a me ka hana hoʻoluʻu o ka lole, e hana ana i nā lole pulupulu i ka nani a me ka pono. I ka mālama ʻana i nā lole pulupulu mercerizing, pono e ʻike ka hui holoi lole olonā hōkele i kona mau ʻano a pale i ka hōʻino ʻana i ka hopena mercerizing. I ka loulou o ka hana ʻana, mai hoʻoholo makapō i ka olonā me ka palupalu a me ka luster like e like me nā olonā kemika. Hiki i ka lole ke lilo i nā lole pulupulu kiʻekiʻe i hala i ka mercerization. Loaʻa i kēia ʻano olonā kahi hana maikaʻi loa i ka pae hōʻoluʻolu a me ke kūpaʻa, hiki ke hāʻawi i kahi ʻike lawelawe maikaʻi aʻe no ka hōkele.

Hopena

Ma hope o ka hoʻomaopopo pono ʻana i ke ʻano o ke ʻano o ka lole olonā a me ka pale ʻana i ka kuhi hewa maʻamau i luna, hiki i nā hōkele (kūʻai lole olonā) a me nā ʻoihana holoi lole olonā (holoi lole olonā) ke ʻike pono i ke kī i ka maikaʻi a hoʻomaikaʻi i ka pae lawelawe holoʻokoʻa o ka ʻoihana holoi lole a me ka ʻoihana hōkele, kahi e lawe mai ai i kahi ʻike noho kiʻekiʻe a ʻoluʻolu hoʻi.